Hello Friends and Happy Saturday!
This week has been a whirlwind of busy! Thursday the hubby and I got home from a family vacation where I picked up some excellent flea market and salvage finds! None are quite ready to share, but it got me motivated to finally share the finished product and tutorial for one of my favorite DIYs to date.
Ikea recently opened a store in Columbus, and with it being just 10 minutes from my house, it has become all too easy to pop in when I need a dose of inspiration, or an inexpensive piece of decor.
No surprises here, but my favorite area of Ikea to visit is the Scratch & Dent department. One particular visit I came across this lampshade. I loved the sage exterior and the flash of gold on the inside. My husband was quick to point out that our home had no room for a lamp that big, but I was determined to find a use for it.
At $20, how could I not snatch it up?!
I had recently been looking for round coffee tables but couldn’t find one I liked within my budget. I had used some pre-cut wood rounds for a previous project and that is when the idea hit me. I could turn this lampshade into the perfect coffee table! Of course I got the skeptical eye roll from my hubby Mike when I shared this crazy idea– he wasn’t quite seeing the vision I had.
So how did I get from lampshade to coffee table? Get the full tutorial below!
For around $60 I gathered up my supplies below and set off to work!
- 1 Lampshade with diameter of 23″ (Remove the metal frame from the shade)
- 2 Pre-cut wood rounds with diameter of 23 3/4″ (I found mine at Home Depot)
- 10 feet of 1″ diameter dowel rods (This allows for extra in case of a mis-measure)
- 1 can Rust-Oleum Metallic Paint (I used color Antique Brass Metallic)
- Minwax Wipe-On Poly in Clear Satin
- 16 1 1/2″ Screws
- 16-18 Micro Nails
- Drill Gun
- 2 Clamps
- Scrap Yarn or String
Step 1: Mark the proper height for the dowel supports.
Step 2: Cut 8 of the dowel supports, all equal in length.
Step 3: Equally space the dowels on wooden base. Be sure the dowels are flush with the edge of the base. This will prevent the shade from caving inward, or collapsing.
Step 4: Trace around each dowel support; this will be your guideline for where to drill.
Step 5: This step will save you time and energy! The wood base that we just traced our dowel placement on goes on top. Place the other wood round on the bottom, and get them lined up equally. Using one clamp on each side, clamp the two wood rounds together. This will allow you to drill all the pilot holes for both wood rounds at once.
Step 6: Drill a small pilot hole directly in the center of your traced circle. Repeat for all 8 circles.
Step 7: Working from the underside of one wood round, drill the screw in just enough to see the point coming through the top edge.
Step 8: Press the center of one dowel support onto the point of the screw coming up through the wood round. Firmly holding the support, drill the screw in completely to secure the dowel in place. **This can be a tricky step if working solo. I enlisted my husband to hold the dowels in place while I drilled the screws in. Makes for a much quicker job with an extra set of hands!
Repeat steps 7 and 8 to secure all 8 dowel supports.
Step 9: Time to add the top! Place the second wood round on top of the dowel supports. Again, be sure to secure the dowels as close to the edge as possible.
Step 10: Check your work! With the frame complete, it is time to test the fit of the shade. You will notice that even with the 8 supports, the shade wasn’t a perfect fit. There were a couple of spots where it collapses inward and looks wavy. Circled in red on the photo is one of the worst spots.
Step 11: Take the shade off the frame. Using yarn or string, tie snugly along the outside of the dowel supports. Once the yarn is secure, take a step back and immediately you can see why the shade isn’t fitting properly.
Step 12: Using micro nails, hammer in 2-3 nails between each dowel support.
You can see now the micro nails give the base a more evenly shaped circle. The shade can rest against both the supports and the nails which will eliminate any waviness or collapsing.
**Be sure to repeat steps 11 and 12 on the interior of both the top and bottom wood rounds**
Step 13: Time to dry fit again. The micro nails made a huge difference!
Step 14: Remove the shade and spray paint your base! I seem to have gotten so excited about the progress at this point that I completely forget to take pictures of the painting process. For reference, I did not prime before painting. I wanted some of the wood grain to show through the metallic paint finish. I used 3 coats, allowing dry time between each coat.
Step 15: 3 coats of sealer to protect against any spills or scratches. Once the sealer has properly dried, your table is finished!
Here is a closer look at the final product:
The shade has a velcro edge, so I opened up the shade and placed two LED candles inside for an extra glow. I also placed 4 felt furniture pads on the bottom side of the table so that it is easier to move across our tile floor.
Seriously one of my most favorite DIYs to date! It is a very unique piece, and people are always intrigued when I tell them it was a clearance lampshade! Outside of dry time for paint and sealer, I completed this project in an afternoon.
I am curious to hear what unique furniture transformations have you made? Are you running out to Ikea for a lampshade to make your own? Let me know in the comments below!